Tailored wool trench jacket
by Carol Bales Follow

After sewing lots of amateur hot messes over the years, I decided to narrow my focus and figure out how to make garments that fit me well and are better than I can afford to buy. This is my first truly tailored garment, and I learned a lot of new skills thanks to tailoring books by Cabrera/Myers and Shaeffer. I was inspired by this Gucci wool trench from their 2011 pre-fall collection. I posted a review of the sewing pattern here, so I think I'll talk about process here instead. 

I don't really sleep well, and end up dorking around with electronics late into the night. I found myself pouring over runway shows via the style.com app, taking screenshots of looks that I love and would really wear. I'll pick one to recreate, then use the Moodboard ipad app to collage the look with pics of my patterns. I don't really have a lot of free time, so I spent literally months on this, a pin here and a seam there. At each point of difficulty, I researched how to move past it using books and videos.  I tried to incorporate as many tailoring and couture techniques as were practical for this garment.  

High's: Learning about sleeve caps and how they work to make the sleeve fall beautifully at the shoulders, the fit of the finished product, playing with my new tailor's pressing clapper, having an excuse to purchase a Rowena iron, having an excellent piece of felted wool to work with. 

Low's: Working on it in such small fits and spurts that I got sick of it, sewing 6 wrongly sized button holes on the front in the final stages.

Now, I'm looking forward to creating a fast and easy summer shift for the sheer pleasure of working quickly. 

Supplies

Discussion 2

  • Laura (is as if) commented 2 years ago

    Wow, you did a great job on this jacket! Totally shows how much time and care you put into stitching it!

  • Gavanna patterns commented 3 years ago

    Gorgeous jacket!

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